Enzo Liverino: On precious coral, craftsmanship, and the heritage we pass on

Show notes

In this episode of the Hidden Gem, Laurent Cartier meets Enzo Liverino, fourth-generation coral specialist from Torre del Greco — the historic heart of the precious coral trade in Italy. The conversation moves through Enzo's childhood in his father's factory, his years buying rough coral in China, Taiwan and Japan, and the deep cultural reach of coral across the world — from Tibet and Cambodia to Morocco, Nigeria, and Native American traditions. Enzo and Laurent discuss the prized varieties of precious coral — angel skin, ox blood, boké, konojoi — and the remarkable story of the Sciacca sub-fossil coral deposits, discovered off the coast of Sicily in 1875 and commercially exhausted by the early 20th century. Enzo has just authored a new book on Sciacca coral, drawing on decades of personal research and historical documents from the archives of the Costa company.

He reflects on the realities of coral fishing today, why he is pushing to change European regulations to allow ROV (robot) harvesting as is already done in Japan, and why he believes the future of the trade depends as much on knowledge transfer as on raw material. He also shares the story of acquiring the largest known angel skin necklace in the world, his collaboration with contemporary artist Jan Fabre, and the coral training programme he runs in Naples for young people with Down syndrome and autism, who graduate as Coral Ambassadors.

About the guest Enzo Liverino is a fourth-generation coral specialist based in Torre del Greco, Italy. He runs the family business founded in the 19th century and oversees the Liverino Coral Museum, which houses one of the most comprehensive collections of coral art in the world, spanning Sciacca craftsmanship, Neapolitan jewellery, Chinese and Japanese carvings, and contemporary works. He is the author of a new book on sciacca coral, published in 2025.

Books by Enzo Liverino Sciacca coral by Enzo Liverino Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/enzoliverino/

Credits Hosted by Laurent Cartier (SSEF). Produced by Martin Herzog. Intro music composed by MMYYLO. A podcast by SSEF — the Swiss Gemmological Institute.

Transcript

Enzo Liverino: We have limited time, so the time that we have, we have to use to let what we have done remain. The information, the culture, and this kind of heritage that will remain for century and century in a place where the people can appreciate the coral. 

Show Opener: SSEF presents the Hidden Gem Podcast, conversations with the world's leading people behind the journey of gems and jewels, from the source to the finished piece.

Laurent Cartier: Today on Hidden Gems, I'm speaking with Enzo Liverino, a fourth generation coral specialist from Torre del Greco in Italy, the historic heart of the precious coral trade. We met at a busy trade fair, so you may hear a little background noise, but that setting feels fitting for a conversation about a material that travels the world. We talk about how coral is sourced and worked, why varieties like angel skin and ox blood are so prized, and how the craft. And the market have changed over the last 50 years. And beyond jewellery, Enzo shares why Coral is ultimately a story about culture, knowledge and what we leave behind.

Laurent: So Enzo, thank you so much for being here with me. We've known each other for more than 10 years. I've learned a lot from you about coral and you are such a knowledgeable person about coral. So I'd love to learn more about how you began with coral and your family. When did you start touching coral and working with coral? Can you share a little bit about that?

Enzo: Yes, the passion that I have for the coral was naturally started when I was six, seven years old because I lived with my father, with my mother, in the place where there was also the factory. So in the morning of course I went to the school and in the afternoon I had to make some study at home, when I finish around five, six o'clock, nothing to do, just play a little bit of football with my cousin, then I went to the factory. That time the factory closed at nine, nine thirty in the evening, and because I was the son of the owner, the worker, they were happy to teach me. So everybody come, and so come here, I teach you. You see, this branch of colour, you have to read where to cut, because the colour will tell you from here you can make a cabochon, from here, you can make beads, or from here you can make a work of art. And this was very useful for me when, at the age of 20, My father asked me - I wasn't studying at the university- but my father said I'm sorry you you will study in China because we need the raw material. So I started to live in China, Taiwan and Japan because we needed a lot of raw material and of course in the beginning it was not easy for me. Because I felt the responsibility of buying at that time a million dollars of coral. But after I feel comfortable because what I have learned when I was a young boy came out. So I can easily understand from outside the dead coral pieces what can be inside. Even if the, I know that with the oxygen water, from a very dirty piece of coral, we can finally carve or make an angel skin figurine or angel skin necklace and so on.

Laurent: So corals have been one of the oldest gems collected by man.

Enzo: Yes.

Laurent: For several thousands of years in the Mediterranean. And they were traded around West Africa. They were traded all the way to Tibet, Marco Polo in the 13th century…

Enzo: I think so.

Laurent: …brought coral, precious coral, also to Tibet. What is the fascination, do you think, that humans have with coral?

Enzo: Well, if you design a map and in every place of the world you can put a picture with a lady wearing a traditional dress, there is always something with the coral. From Russia, Afghanistan, then Scandinavia, Holland, Poland. Russia is really say that we go little bit south Tibet, Nepal then even in Cambodia China China also the Emperor or the Queen they there are many image where they were the coral and then Japan Then on the other side of the world where we can find many Indian, Native American wearing coral. Inca also, there are some pictures in which they wear the coral. Then, in North Africa, they use a lot of coral in Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia. And then if we go on the south, Nigeria, where the coral was very important for ruling in Africa, because the King of Benin has a dress all made by coral. And the weight is 14 kilo. And since a century, the chief of a group, to become a chief, they must have many corals on their body. And when they died, they were put in the land with the coral.

Laurent: So that's the thing is that coral is not just about the beauty and the colour, but there is some connection that people are symbols. So what is why do you think coral became so important or so attractive? What attracted you?

Enzo: Maybe the connection of the blood this can be one of the reasons because also in the mythology they talk they say that the coral come out from the head of Medusa going in the water becomes coral. Yes, then from this mythology it becomes more the idea of a coral connecting with the blood and with health, good health of course, and then also good luck. The symbol of good luck in Naples is the small horned cornetto.

Laurent: So you're a healthy and lucky man. You have you have so much coral in stock and you have had so much coral, beautiful coral passed through your hands.

Enzo: Yes, what I would like to, that is now time to give back all the information that I get from this trade and also helping the trade of course, helping the scuba divers to not risk their life, so I am trying to change the European regulation with the sustainable use of robots like they make in Japan. So then educate the people on coral is my goal. And thanks to people like Laurent Cartier, Laurent, you was the first who start to help me in this mission. Maybe you forgot, but… I remember when I come to you and I said let's make something to let people really understand the difference between the precious coral and the reef coral because there is so many misunderstandings.

Laurent: Yeah. Well, thank you very much. And we learned a lot from you as well.

Enzo: And we create also a website, sustainablecoral.org, that now the word sustainable is too much, you said, in the wrong way.

Laurent: But if we bring it back, I think what's also very interesting is all the knowledge you have about craftsmanship, what you were explaining about these cutters who were in your father's factory, who were showing you all this. Do you feel like, can you tell us a little bit about Torre del Greco, where you come from? Why is it that the coral trade is centred in Torre Del Greco? And how do you see the future of Torre de Greco. Are these skills being passed on?

Enzo: I think the coral will remain for many many years in the city of Torre del Greco. Torre del Greco people are very smart and we learn all the things that we know about coral. We learn from Genova and Livorno before the corals was worked there. Then we was lucky to have a French king and a French queen, Joachim Murat, his wife, Carolina Bonaparte. They loved the coral. They loved it a lot. And they made a special regulation, special law to help the coral people.

Laurent: To help the craftsmen or to help the fishermen or to help everyone trade?

Enzo: Everything, fishermen, factory, the teaching, they opened the first coral school in Torre del Greco. They opened the first factory. Before there was one [some] people that make the drill and other people who make the cutting. He got the idea. To call Marcia's man and open a factory as an example for the other Torre De Greco people. Now, fortunately for us, the coral remains in Torre del Greco was brought in as a cutting also in China, but the most popular coral in the world right now is a Mediterranean coral and in Torre del Greco we know very well how to work.

Laurent: So this means that up until, what is it, 1800 or 1812, it was exclusively Mediterranean coral that had been traded and fished for thousands of years. And then beds of corals were discovered in Asia, right? And this radically changed the industry?

Enzo: Yes, at the end of the last century, the beginning of last century…

Laurent: …19th century, yeah….

Enzo: …it was found in Japan and my grand-grandfather, he went there, it takes two, three months by boat, he went there and he found that there is this beautiful coral that at that time the German people they love. Because it was bigger than our coral, and there was the pink that also in, the French people, they like very much. And we are talking about the angel skin, of course, you know?

Laurent: Can you tell me the story about boké and the term boké?

Enzo: This is something that few people know, but my grandfather, of course, he was a dealer, he was business man. When he went to Japan to buy coral, Corallium elatius, we say cerasuolo, the colour of the cherries, and it's medium red. And just… Very rare, you can find in one tonne, one piece albino, anomalous core, that is light pink. So he know that the value is much higher, but the Japanese, they don't know. And when he start to buy, he make selection. All the light pieces he put on side. At the end, the Japanese was surprised. He said, Mr. Liverino, but what about this? At least this is no good. It's not red, and it's not white. It's pink. It's a stupid coral. And the stupid translating Japanese, they say the boké. So remain the word, boké.

Laurent: And Boké is one of the most valued varieties of precious coral today, right? Yes. Interesting. So how many generations has your family been in the coral trade?

Enzo: With my son, my two sons, Andrea and Basilio, they are the fifth generation, already prepare the sixth (laughs).

Laurent: Okay, and most people who are not very familiar with precious coral or coral think of coral as kind of, yeah, orange to red and that this is the colour, but there are many other varieties. I mean, we have thousands of coral species, but only a handful or two handfuls that are precious corals so that can be worked in jewellery. But can you tell us a little bit more about white varieties of coral, konojoi. Or the big discoveries of secundum that were in the 50s and 60s and all this material.

Enzo: Yeah, in that time I was in Taipei and the Taiwanese, they get news that there was coral in Midway Island.

Laurent: Which year was this?

Enzo: About 1970, 1970. And then they started very big boat. They went together with the Taiwanese and Japanese boat. They went there, and they start to fish. And they come back with each boat 300 tonnes of coral, each boat. Amazing.

Laurent: And this was very deep, right?

Enzo: Three, four hundred, five hundred metres, then after a few years they found also a location where they found coral at two thousand metres, two thousand metre deep. So this is interesting to understand that the coral, precious coral, is very strong. And now we are studying together with the scientific centre and the university. Why the precious coral is so strong, so powerful. Understanding this, we can help the coral reef. We can better understand because the precious corals so deep, cold water, no light, very strong wind, but still there and grow up very fast. All the studies that they have made on Mediterranean coral and other corals are helping the reef coral to not have too many problems or damage. Also on this I would like to say just a couple of words that we don't have to worry too much about the death of reef coral. Because it's something that is made by our God, or Buddha, or which we believe. Because it is natural that somebody died and then create other situation. The coral reef, he born and lives very fast. So it's natural that part of it died. And when we go in the nice beach, we have a fantastic sand, white sand, where we can enjoy with the family.

Laurent: But we still need the corals for the fish, for the whole ecosystem. So are you, I mean, I think there's a lot of scientific evidence showing that with warmer waters and more acidity, more CO2 in the water, it's getting more difficult for coral to form. Are you worried that in a hundred years time or two hundred years there won't be anymore precious coral?

Enzo: No, I don't know. I believe in God, so I know that he will control everything, he will make everything good.

Laurent: And you said you were spending time in China in your 20s, how was that experience? Do you speak Chinese?

Enzo: No, unfortunately, no.

Laurent: A suitcase full of cash and you bought rough material or how did it work?

Enzo: No, we went there and we have a credit because they don't know me, but I have since my grandfather and grand grandfather connection with the Japanese and the Japanese in that time they was accredited very well in Taiwan and in China. So I went there together with those Japanese that becomes my agent and when I buy they can I would say, give a credit on me and say, no problem, if Mr. Liverino don't pay, we will pay you. And this helped me a lot.

Laurent: And which part of China was this? Hainan Peninsula, or?

Enzo: No, Hainan, the Japanese are very smart because the Japanese, they went in Vietnam and they were not allowed. They fish the coral. When they come back in Japan, they say that was fished in Hainan. Just don't let the Taiwanese people know that that colour lives in Vietnam because konojoi was very precious. The price was very high. Still very high!

Laurent: This is white precious coral.

Enzo: Yes, because not so many and very useful for jewellery, precious jewellery, because it's uniform. The other coral that comes from Midway is pinkish And for a high jewellery brand, it doesn't work.

Laurent: They want something more homogenous?

Enzo: Yes, right, yes.

Laurent: I remember I visited Taiwan in 2016, you gave me some contacts and in the southeast I visited a jewellery shop of chili coral back then and it was over 7,000 square metres of coral jewellery. I said back then to them, I said, probably you're the biggest jewellery store in the world, you should be in the Guinness Book of World Records. Absolutely incredible. This made me understand that a lot of the market for precious coral is also found in Asia. How has this changed over the last decades or centuries? Is the market really in China?

Enzo: The market still remain in China and the fortune of Chii Lih coral was that in that time the policy between the government of Taiwan and China was more friendly, more open. So Taiwan can get many visitors coming from China that went to Taiwan to buy coral. That's the reason why Ming Li Chii Lih coral open a shop that the first was 700 square metre and she made another four shops and the last shop was a 2000 square metre so when i went there i can see outside waiting the tourists 200 bus 250 bus and then as always something happened the government the taiwanese government Chinese go and they start to disagree on many things. China doesn't give more visa to the Chinese to go to Taiwan.

Laurent: But what really impressed me was the fascination. So one thing is that this was tourism or shopping, but it means the Chinese people really have and had this deep cultural link.

Enzo: Yes, with coral.

Laurent: And when I visited Taipei 101 there was a necklace I think that was retailing for over a million US dollars, you know, Oxblood. I mean, incredible value.

Enzo: Yes, and at that time there was also an amazing necklace of Angel's skin. We were, and we are, very close with the owner, Ming Li, and during a congress that she organised, she bring all the guests one-on-one, and maybe there was not the Oxblood necklace where they was. A very big angel skin necklace. And she said, this is the biggest angel skin necklace existing in the world, 650 gramme. And then joking with the people, she said there is only one man that can appreciate this necklace and this is Enzo. And then I, just joking, said, thank you very much, Ming Li but, uh… Please, sell to me. So she was a little bit embarrassed. And looking at the people around, she opened the window. She take the necklace, and she gave it to me." She said, OK, it's yours. And I bought it.

Laurent: And you still have it today.

Enzo: Of course.

Laurent: So this is your personal collection and you have a museum in Torre del Greco, right?

Enzo: And regarding the museum, I'm very proud of it because… There are some other museums, but specific, on the Chinese art, or Japanese art. What the experts say that, when you come in my museum, it's completely new, starting from last century, siacca coral, used in Trapani to make artwork. Then Neapolitan jewellery, and then in old China and new Chinese pieces, Japan, modern art. And then the last section of the museum was opened a couple of years ago. To give the right space to the contemporary art. Because seven years ago, I started to work in collaboration with, I think it's the number one contemporary artist in the world, Jan Fabre. In that time, he made a piece of art using different material. Just for luck, he visited my museum and he was shocked and he said no Enzo. I already have some idea with concrete idea. We will do something really fantastic and we have done we made some pieces that was sold to a very rich collector, some museum and then together we decided also to donate something to Naples. And we donate four big pieces of art in Pio Monte della Misericordia. And another donation was a big frame of coral, two metre by two metre, with the symbol of San Gennaro. And this was a donation to the San Gennaro treasure.

Laurent: Is this you giving back or is it you expressing the fact that coral is let's say a work of art from nature and this is like an extension of that that, the work of Art of Nature deserves to collaborate with you know the human spirit or the human mind in creating more art or what is your your vision behind collaborating with artists and not just keeping coral for jewellery as beads or cabochons.

Enzo: But we have a limited time, so the time that we have, we have to use to let what we have done remain. And what we can leave is the information, the culture, and this kind of heritage that will remain for centuries and centuries. In a place where the people can appreciate the coral and what is the coral.

Laurent: And of all coral types and coral varieties, do you have a personal favourite?

Enzo: Let me say that the Mediterranean…

Laurent: or is that a trick question?

Enzo: No, I like Mediterranean because I'm very familiar, especially in the last 10 years it's become more easy to work with the Mediterranean as a trader. If I have to say that my favourite coral is Mediterranean, it's not because I like the light colour, so angel skin is my favourite.

Laurent: And you mentioned before Sciacca coral. Not everybody is familiar with that, but can you tell us a little bit about Sciacca and your relationship to Sciacca?

Enzo: Sciacca coral still belongs to Corallium rubrum, that is Mediterranean coral, and was a deposit of coral found, the history says that it was found in 1875, in my opinion was found much before that time, because… I know that Islam was very close to the coral for religion and also for the fishing. They invented the tools to fish the coral in the 10th century.

Laurent: In North Africa, right?

Enzo: In North Africa. And they used tools in a way that they don't lose the nets. And there was also a selective way to fish the coral, because they used broken nets. The broken nets, they take only the big branch, leaving the small one. So it was a selective and, of course, sustainable way. What happened in Sciacca? That the strong current coming from Sardinia, Tunisia, Algeria, and so on, the broken piece of small Sardinian coral was bringing it through Sicily. And in the Sicily channel, the current changed, stopped. So the coral that arrived there went down. On the sea base and remain there, century after century, and create a deposit high 30 metres. So you can imagine in thousands and thousands of years that there was this phenomenon. 30 metres, there are also many, many colours, because on the top was of course red. The more you go down. The coral when it dies becomes orange and become pink. There are some also line that was smoked by the volcano close to that area. The volcano that created the island, Ferdinandea Island, a volcano that is in Sicily, yes, a volcano that born in one year and after one year was destroyed by himself, but the lava hit that line and the coral on that line was smoked, black outside but still orange inside. And then the coral, there are so many things to say about the Sciacca coral. Since 20 years, I am writing notes. Finally, I met my best friend, Henry Ho, who lives in Bangkok. And he said, but finish your book! I will edit it for you. And now it's ready. In the next week, I will send to Henry. And we will print the book.

Laurent: We look forward to reading the book. So why do you think that it was discovered before 1875? They had the tools, but you think they brought it to market?

Enzo: No, no, because my father in 1960 he bought the biggest and oldest coral factory in Italy, company name was Costa, that closed in 1930 because of the war in Russia. No family remain so they donate everything to a small church near Genoa. The church, they have all this coral but they don't send nothing so they contact my father and my father pay a lot, but the priests say, Mr. Liverino, you buy the coral, of course. But you should also clean the house, the room, because I have to, as a church, I have to sell it because I need the money to repair the church. So my father was very happy to bring in Naples all the documentation that they have. During the pandemic, I studied all these documents together with my staff. And we found some document in which Sciacca, eh Costa company some piece of paper write by hand in which they bought coral from Arabic people before Sciacca coral before 1875. And there are some also invoices made in the United States or in Russia or in other parts of the world for a big amount. Of necklace of Sciacca coral. And the date of the invoice was before the 1875.

Laurent: And so how much of the Sciacca coral deposit is there left? I mean, that's what's so interesting. It's like if it's a coral mine or a coral deposit, right?

Enzo: It was a deposit, it was not a mine, is finished now. It's finished.

Laurent: Wow, that's interesting. And so what do you think are the best light conditions to see coral, to touch coral? If somebody has never worked with coral before or worn coral, what would you recommend?

Enzo: Now with the new technology the light doesn't make any damage to the colour because the colour doesn't love the hot temperature so mostly now the light are with the LED and this personal test if you like warm light or cold light depend on also sometimes the pieces from the carving and from the feeling that you want to give to the if it's an artist piece.

Laurent: For many centuries, Carl, there was big debate, is it animal or is it a plant? Any thoughts on that? Also, when you get the branches afterwards, obviously you never just use the rough material, you have to cut the rough material, you have shape it, and then you have polish it.

Enzo: No, there is, as you know very well, when you fish the coral, outside there is a skin in which the polyps live. After one year, that polyps die and they create the basis for another generation of polyps. And the soft part, when we fish the corals, in a couple of hours, will become dry. And If we keep in the deposit for a year, of course, because we never used to fish the coral and cut. We like to keep for a long time, and also because each area has different colour. So North Africa, the colour is more light, and French coast is more darker.

Laurent: Why do you think that is?

Enzo: There may be some small differences in the polyps, but it's a good question. Maybe we can ask the scientific centre in Monte Carlo to give an explanation. And also in Corallium rubrum there are the boké/bokeh. And they, in Monte Carlo, they have in cultivation for study. A branch of a coral. Very funny, also to understand what's happened in that albino piece of coral.

Laurent: Yeah, I saw one of those I visited in December in Monte Carlo, very interesting to see how they're growing.

Enzo: Fantastic people.

Laurent: What is so difficult and what is so rare about precious corals is that we can't just cultivate corals.

Enzo: We can cultivate for study.

Laurent: But not for commercial?

Enzo: But not commercially. But it doesn't need also because there is a lot of coral.

Laurent: You still have a lot of old stocks?

Enzo: I still have a lot of old stock and of course I have to think on the future. So we cannot expect only the coral fished by the scuba diver because it's too risky for them. We must work to change the law because it is a stupid law.

Laurent: So right now the law is that you have to dive, but it has to be below how many metres? 50? 100?

Enzo: No, now they are changing again, they make more stronger.

Laurent: For the Mediterranean?

Enzo: Because it was 50, now it's 80.

Laurent: It's tough diving under 80.

Enzo: And then you can reach 100 metres, 100 metres 120 metres, but no more. And you can be there for two, three, five minutes. And very risky. When we can make a very strong regulation on the fishing with the robot. And the robot, it's not me that say, I say that. The robot is. Really sustainable because the robot has two hands, of course the robot has a monitor video and if he found a small branch he doesn't care, he go more far to find a big branch. When he finds it with one arm he takes the big branch and with the other arm he just breaks the small branch that goes in the rock and creates other coral colonies.

Laurent: Yeah, colonies, yeah. Interesting. And this is how they do it also in Japan, right? They have a lot more experience.

Enzo: In Japan, the law is that the car can be fished only by ROV. Only by ROV. And in Europe, we have just the opposite. It's stupid.

Laurent: Well, let's see where that goes. But there are still a lot of old stocks left, like in Torre del Greco, people have. Yeah, so you are not worried for your, I guess, your son still has coral to work with. And you said that the next generation is already being prepared.

Enzo: We have to think about the next generation. Of course, I cannot think that if they start to fish coral with the robot, the robot will fish a lot of coral. No, it's not true because they can fish only six months per year. There are some, another three months of the six in which the weather is no good, and it takes time, takes a lot of time. They should have a licence, they should have big boat. It's not something easy like they imagine. You just take a small boat with the rope and then you go to take a coral. It's not like this.

Laurent: And where's the demand for precious coral today, in terms of markets and continents? How has that evolved over the last 50 years?

Enzo: Well, as always, there are ups and downs on the market and there are some countries that start to use more and then after a couple of years they remain stable and grow up in other markets. So we went from Saudi Arabia market up to Russia, then come back to Germany, United States. Until a couple of years ago the United States was the first market for us. Let's say that now the country with the French influence they are the one that give us a work and mostly of the bigger brand the famous brand they are French.

Laurent: And they also used a lot of coral during Art Deco, during the 50s, 60s, 70s also. There's a lot the big brands worked so much with coral that they're revisiting some of the…

Enzo: Really right, right, yes.

Laurent: We have this cultural heritage of having corals, right? And the… Same for Italian brands.

Enzo: There are not so many creative designers or creative people. There are some, but not so much like before. So they are studying the old collections to try to get some idea from what they have made before.

Laurent: And do you cut the coral yourself, or do you polish yourself?

Enzo: Yes, I like, I like to do it.

Laurent: And you also like to paint, right?

Enzo: I like to paint.

Laurent: What do you paint?

Enzo: In the beginning, I started to paint when I was really very young, classic things, a vessel or a house and so on. Then, I start to be more interested in, let's say, contemporary art. And I understand that I won't use coral. In the beginning, I used coral powder. The one that remains when you finish to work, to cut, it remains like a powder.

Laurent: But as a paint pigment, or you use the powder as colour? No, I use it.

Enzo: I glue on the painting, on some part of the painting. But then I use the same technique used by Jan Fabre. So some, let's say, paintings of mine, they are in 3D. And there is a face. And the part of face is covered by a branch, coral, a small cabochon. And so on. Also using a different colour. So mostly the Sciacca colour helped me a lot because the Sciacca has maybe 40, 50 different nuances of colour.

Laurent: That's incredible diversity that you can do with it. And then with your grandchildren, because you said you're preparing the next generation, what are you teaching them about, coral? How are you getting them interested?

Enzo: Well, some of course are more interested than others, but mostly they want to imitate me, they want to make something that I do. So when they come to me, they see that I make paintings, they want to paint together. So I prepare four tablet, oh five, because I am one of them. And they say, what do we want to do, a house or this or that? And we will do together five different things. The oldest one, of course, now they are more interested in making some concrete things and something that is more close to my heart, let's say art. And then I want to also say that we are cooperating now with an organisation in Naples who has 15 young people who limited our, I don't know if it's in English, autistic. Autistic or syndrome down.

Laurent: Yes, Down syndrome.

Enzo: And for one year, we teach them everything about coral. So we start in January, three months, the theory, with using Keynotes, the image. The coral is this. Then it was fished like this. Using the technique of Rui [Galopim de Carvalho], for instance, okay, let's go down to see the coral in the water and the image is completely black. Why? There is no image. Because we forgot to switch on the light… Switch the light and you can see the coral in the sea and they feel enthusiastic. So moving them, now they have a passion and especially when they understand that I want to teach them how to do some object using a poor quality of coral, but they have made one, we start with the frame, small frame, and the side of the frame they glue a piece of coral. Someone make better, someone make less. But really, yeah, it's really inspiring. My technique, I am teaching to them also even what to put inside because inside you can of course you put a picture but you can even put your design, your sketch that you will cover with shell, with some small pieces broken of turquoise or with other material just to create.

Enzo: You know, my brother-in-law has Down syndrome and he loves to paint, so maybe I come to Torre del Greco and you teach us both together.

Enzo: Yes, my sister has down's syndrome, maybe for this reason I like to teach that. And one thing is that I don't like to communicate these things because I made it because I like it to do. I don't want to let people know that I do this because I do it because I like to do.

Enzo: Yeah, you do it from the heart.

Enzo: Right. And at the end of the year, we will make an exhibition. They will sell what they have made. And the money will go there.

Laurent: So when will this be?

Enzo: At the end of the year.

Laurent: at the end of this year 2025.

Enzo: And then we will give to them a diploma. They will become a Coral Ambassador. With the mayor of the city of Torre del Greco. Italian flag, make a nice ceremony.

Laurent: That's really inspiring. That's a great way of giving back. And maybe some of the pieces will then also end up in your museum, right?

Enzo: Why not?

Laurent: Well, I look forward. Thank you very much, Enzo, for this conversation. Thank you, Laurent. I realise that I need to come back to Torre del Greco. Of course. To see the museum and come and visit you again and visit the workshops and learn more. So thank you very for your time and sharing all your expertise and your wisdom.

Laurent: Thank you. Thank you very much, Laurent.

Laurent: Our guest Enzo Liverino reminding us that what we leave behind is knowledge and culture. That was another Hidden Gem by SSEF, the Swiss Gemological Institute. Thank you for listening.

Show transcript

00:00:00: We have a limited time, so the time that we are to use... ...to let what we've done remain.

00:00:07: The information and culture… And this kind of editage will remain for centuries in place where people can appreciate the corona.

00:00:26: SSCF presents the Hidden Gem podcast Conversations with the world's leading people behind the journey of gems and jewels, from source to finish piece.

00:00:40: Today on Hidden Gems I'm speaking with Enzo Liverino a fourth generation Coral Specialist from Torre del Greco in Italy The historic heart of precious coral trade.

00:00:50: We met at busy trade fair so you may hear background noise but that setting feels fitting for conversation about material which travels around.

00:01:00: We talk about how Coral has sourced and worked, why varieties like Angel Skin & Oxblood are so prized.

00:01:06: And the craft AND market have changed over the last fifty years!

00:01:11: Beyond Jewelry Enzo shares why Coral is ultimately a story of culture, knowledge and what we leave behind.

00:01:25: You are such a knowledgeable person about coral, so I'd love to learn more about how you began with coral and your family.

00:01:37: When did you start touching coral?

00:01:39: And working with coral... Can you share little bit of that?

00:01:42: Yes!

00:01:43: The passion for the coral was naturally started when i was six or seven years old because with my father, with my mother in the place where there was also a factory.

00:02:00: So... In the morning of course I went to school and in afternoon I had some study at home when i finished around five six o'clock nothing to do just play little bit football with my cousin.

00:02:16: then I went into the factory.

00:02:19: that time the factory closed.

00:02:21: nine, nine thirty in the evening.

00:02:25: And because I was son of owner, the worker they were happy to teach me.

00:02:33: so everybody come and so come here.

00:02:35: i will teach you this branch or color.

00:02:38: You have read where to cut Because the color we tell from ear you can make a cabochon From ear you could make beads Or from ear is an art.

00:02:52: This was very useful for me when at the age of twenty, I wasn't studying in university but my father said that he would study in China because we needed raw materials.

00:03:06: So i started living in China Taiwan and Japan Because We need a lot of raw material.

00:03:16: And Of course In the beginning it's not easy because I feel the responsibility of buying that time million dollars of coral.

00:03:29: But after, I felt comfortable with what I ever learned when a young boy came out.

00:03:37: so it was easy for me to understand from outside about dead coral pieces and what can be inside even if... I know that with oxygen water From a very dirty piece of coral we can finally carve it or make an angel skin figurine, or an angel-skin necklace and so

00:04:01: on.

00:04:01: So corals have been one the oldest gems collected by man?

00:04:05: Yes!

00:04:06: For several thousands years in the Mediterranean.

00:04:09: they were traded around West Africa all the way to Tibet.

00:04:12: Marco Polo from the thirteenth century brought precious coral also into Tibet.

00:04:18: What is the fascination do you think that humans have with coral?

00:04:22: Well, if we design them up and in every place of the world.

00:04:28: You can put a picture with this lady wearing traditional dress.

00:04:34: there's always something with the coral from Russia, Afghanistan Scandinavia and Holland Poland Russia, we already say that.

00:04:46: We go a little bit south to Tibet and Nepal.

00:04:51: even in Cambodia China also the emperor or the queen there are many images where they wear the coral.

00:05:01: And then Japan.

00:05:03: Then we went on the other side of the world whether we can find Many Indian-Native American wearing corals.

00:05:12: Inca also, there are some pictures in which they wear the coral.

00:05:17: Then North Africa... They use a lot of coral in Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia.

00:05:24: And then if we go on South Nigeria where the coral was very important ruling in Africa because the king of Benin has a dress all made by coral at weight is fourteen kilos.

00:05:41: Since a century ago, the chief of group to become chief they must have many corals on their body and when it died.

00:05:54: They were put in land with the coral.

00:05:59: So that's the thing, is that coral it not just about beauty and color but there are some connections of people with symbols.

00:06:06: Why do you think coral became so important or attractive?

00:06:10: Maybe

00:06:11: connection over blood?

00:06:13: this can be one reason because also in mythology they say corals come out from the head of Medusa.

00:06:23: going into water becomes coral.

00:06:26: Then from this mythology it becomes more the idea of a coral connected with blood and health.

00:06:36: Good health, then also good luck.

00:06:40: The symbol for good luck in Naples is small or cornetto.

00:06:45: So you're healthy and lucky man?

00:06:47: You have so much coral in stock And had beautiful coral passed

00:06:53: through your hands.

00:06:55: It is now time to give back all the information that I get from this trade and also helping the trade, of course.

00:07:06: Helping these Cuba divers to don't risk their life.

00:07:11: so i am trying to change the European regulation with the sustainable use of robots like they make in Japan.

00:07:20: So then educate people on coral is my goal.

00:07:27: And thanks to people like Laurent Cartier, Laurent you was the first who started helping me in this mission.

00:07:37: maybe you forgot but I remember when i come and say let's make something so that people really understand difference between the precious coral reef coral because there are many misunderstandings.

00:07:55: Well, thank you very much and I've learned a lot from you as well.

00:07:58: And we

00:07:58: create also the website to CinnabarCoral.org.

00:08:02: that now the word Cinnable is too much used in the wrong way.

00:08:08: But if we bring it back what's interesting is all of knowledge about craftsmanship.

00:08:13: What were explaining these cutters who are at your father's factory?

00:08:19: Can you tell us a little bit about Torre del Greco, where you come from?

00:08:23: Why is it that the coral trade has centered in Torre Del Greco and how do you see the future of Torre de El Greco.

00:08:29: Are these skills being passed on?

00:08:32: I think at the Coral we remain for many years city Torre De Greco.

00:08:39: people are very smart.

00:08:42: We learn all things that we know about coral.

00:08:46: We learned from Genoa and Livorno, before the Korra was worked there.

00:08:52: Then we were lucky to have a French king and a French queen.

00:08:58: Giorchino Murat's wife Karolina Bonaparte loved the Korrah very much.

00:09:06: They made special regulations, especially low to help the coral people.

00:09:11: So, it's...

00:09:12: To help craftsmen or to help fishermen?

00:09:14: Or to help everyone trade?

00:09:16: Everything!

00:09:17: Fisherman, factory, teaching them.

00:09:20: they opened first coral school in Toregraco.

00:09:24: They open their first factory.

00:09:26: before there was one person that made a drill and other people who make cutting.

00:09:35: he got an idea to call Marseille's man and open a factory as sample for the other Tore de Greco people.

00:09:45: So now fortunately, for us, the coral remaining in Tore De Greco was brought into cutting also in China but... The most popular corals right now is Mediterranean Coral And in TORE DE GRECO we know very well how it works.

00:10:06: Yeah, so this means that up until what is it?

00:10:09: eighteen hundred or eighteen twelve It was exclusively Mediterranean coral.

00:10:13: That had been traded and fished for thousands of years And then beds of corals were discovered in Asia right and this radically changed the industry

00:10:22: The beginning of last century

00:10:24: to nineteenth century.

00:10:25: I was founded in Japan and my grand-grandfather He went there with.

00:10:33: It takes two, three months by boat.

00:10:35: He went there and he found this beautiful coral in that time the German people.

00:10:42: they loved it because was bigger than our coral And there is a pink that also in French people like very much and we are talking about the age of skin.

00:10:56: Can

00:10:57: you tell me this story?

00:10:58: This

00:11:01: is something that few people know, but my grandfather... Of course he was a dealer or business man when it went to Japan to buy coral.

00:11:14: Corallium Melatus, we say Cerrasuolo in the color over the shears his medium red And just very rare, you can find on one tonne of color.

00:11:27: One piece albino, anomalous core that is light pink.

00:11:33: so he knows the value is much higher.

00:11:36: but Japanese they don't know.

00:11:38: when it starts to buy he makes selection and all these light pieces put inside.

00:11:44: at the end the Japanese were surprised.

00:11:47: say Mr Leverine what about this?

00:11:50: At least This is not good.

00:11:55: It's not red and it's not white, it's pink... ...it has a stupid coral.

00:12:00: And the stupid translation in Japanese they say bokeh.

00:12:05: so remain the word bokehe.

00:12:07: Bokehe is one of the most valued varieties of precious corals today right?

00:12:13: Yes Interesting.

00:12:14: So how many generations have your family been on the coral trade?

00:12:17: you know with my son, my two sons Andrea Basilio.

00:12:22: They are the

00:12:23: fifth generation

00:12:24: already prepared.

00:12:25: six

00:12:28: okay and most people who are not very familiar with precious coral or coral think of coral is kind Yeah, orange to red and that this is the color.

00:12:38: But there are many other varieties.

00:12:40: I mean we have thousands of coral species but only a handful or two handfuls that are precious corals so they can be worked in jewellery.

00:12:50: Can you tell us more about white varieties of Coral, Coraljoy?

00:12:55: Or big discoveries of Secundum That were in the fifties and sixties And all these materials?

00:13:02: At

00:13:02: that time i was at Taipei And the Taiwanese, they get news that there was coral in Midway Island.

00:13:11: So which

00:13:12: year it was this?

00:13:12: Well,

00:13:14: nineteen seventy.

00:13:15: Nineteen seventy and then they start a very big boat.

00:13:21: They went together with Japanese, Taiwanese and Japanese boats... ...they were on their way to fish.. ..and come back with each boat.

00:13:31: three hundred ton of coral, each boat.

00:13:35: Amazing!

00:13:36: And this was very deep right?

00:13:38: Someone?

00:13:40: three four hundred five hundred meters.

00:13:42: then after a few years they found also location where they found corals at two thousand meter deep.

00:13:50: so it is interesting to understand that the coral he precious coral his very strong.

00:13:59: And now we are studying it together with the scientific center and the university.

00:14:06: Why?

00:14:07: The precious coral is so strong, so powerful.

00:14:12: Understanding these we can help the coral reef.

00:14:16: We can better understand because the precious coral's so deep cold water no light very strong wind but still there grow up really fast.

00:14:29: All the study that they have made on Mediterranean coral and other corals are helping the reef coral to don't have too many problems or damage.

00:14:44: Also, I would like say just a couple of words.

00:14:49: we do not worry much about the dead of reef coral because it is something God, no.

00:15:00: Or Buddha or in which we believe because it's natural that somebody died and then create other situation.

00:15:12: the coral reef is born and lives very fast so its nature that part of it died.

00:15:20: And when we go on a nice beach We have fantastic sand, the white sand where we can enjoy with our family.

00:15:29: But you still need corals for fish and the whole ecosystem.

00:15:32: so... Right!

00:15:34: I mean there's a lot of scientific evidence showing that with warmer waters and more acidity or CO² in water it is getting harder to form.

00:15:44: Are you worried at one hundred years' time?

00:15:47: No no….

00:15:48: I believe

00:15:49: God will control everything.

00:15:54: You will

00:15:54: make everything good.

00:15:56: Yeah, and you said that you were spending time in China... ...in your twenties?

00:16:02: How was the experience then?

00:16:03: Did you speak Chinese or how did it go?

00:16:04: No

00:16:04: unfortunately not at all!

00:16:05: Do you arrive

00:16:05: there just had a suitcase full of cash.. ..and do you bought rough material or how does this work?

00:16:12: We went there.

00:16:13: we have credit because they don't know me.

00:16:17: So, but since my grandfather and grand-grandfather connection with the Japanese.

00:16:23: And in Japan is at that time they was accredited very well in Taiwan any China.

00:16:29: so I went there together with those Japanese.

00:16:33: that becomes my age when I buy.

00:16:36: They can give a credit on me.

00:16:40: say no problem if Mr Dimeo don't pay we will Will pay you.

00:16:46: This helped me a lot.

00:16:47: And which part of China was this?

00:16:49: Hainan Peninsula, where Konojoi... No,

00:16:51: Hainana.

00:16:52: The Japanese are very smart because the Japanese went in Vietnam and they were not allowed to fish their coral.

00:17:02: when they came back here In Japan They said that it was fished in Hainans.

00:17:08: Just don't let Taiwanese people know That that coral is in Vietnam Because Konojoi was very precious, the price is still high.

00:17:20: For this white-precious

00:17:21: coral?

00:17:21: Yes because not so many and it's useful for jewelry, precious jewellery as a uniform.

00:17:31: The other corals that come from Midway are pinkish and for high brand jewellry doesn't work.

00:17:41: They want something more homogeneous which has to be consistent in color.

00:17:45: Yeah, I remember you once... ...I visited Taiwan in two thousand sixteen.

00:17:50: You gave me some contacts and the southeast I visited a jewelry shop of Chile Coral back then And it was over seven thousand square meters.

00:18:00: Yes, of

00:18:00: coral jewelry.

00:18:01: I said back then to them... ...I said probably you're the biggest jewelry store in the world.

00:18:05: You should be on Guinness Book Of World Records.

00:18:08: Absolutely incredible.

00:18:09: This made me understand that a lot of the market for precious coral is also found in Asia.

00:18:15: How has this changed over the last decades or centuries?

00:18:18: Is the market really in China?

00:18:20: The market is still in China and the fortune of Chilli Coral was In that time, the policy between the government of Taiwan and China was more friendly.

00:18:33: More open.

00:18:34: So Taiwan can get many visitors coming from China That went to Taiwan to buy coral.

00:18:43: That's why Mili Chil Coral opened a shop.

00:18:48: The first one was seven hundred square meters And she made another full show At last shop two thousand square meters.

00:18:59: When I went there, you can see outside waiting the tourist... Two hundred buss, two-hundred fifty buss.

00:19:07: and then as always something happened.

00:19:10: The government.

00:19:12: Taiwan is a government Chinese government.

00:19:14: they start to disagree on many things.

00:19:18: China doesn't give more visa To the Chinese.

00:19:22: go to Taiwan.

00:19:24: But what really impressed me was the fascination.

00:19:26: So one thing is that this was tourism or shopping, but it means the Chinese people have and had... ...this deep cultural link to Koro.

00:19:35: And when I visited Taipei One-O-One there's a necklace that was retailing for over a million US dollars.

00:19:40: You know?

00:19:41: Oxblood!

00:19:42: I mean incredible value.

00:19:43: Yes at that time there were also amazing necklaces of angel skin and we are very close with the owner, Millie.

00:19:54: And during a congress that she organized... She bring all of the guests one-on-one.

00:20:02: maybe there was not the ox plot necklace but it is a very big angel skin necklace!

00:20:10: This is the biggest angel skin necklaces existing in the world, six hundred fifty grams.

00:20:18: And then joking with the people, she said there is only one man that can appreciate these necklaces and this hand saw.

00:20:27: Then I just jokingly say thank you very much Milly but please sell to me.

00:20:34: so she was a little bit embarrassed looking at all of them around.

00:20:39: She opened her window, took off his necklace and gave it back to him.

00:20:47: And you still have it today?

00:20:48: Of course.

00:20:49: So this is your personal collection and you've got a museum right in Torre del Greco, yes.

00:20:56: Regarding the museum I'm very proud of because there are some other museums but specific on Chinese art or Japanese art what do experts say that when they come to my museum You, starting from last century, Chaka Korol used the intrappany to make artwork.

00:21:22: Then Neapolitan jewellery and then in old China and new Chinese pieces Japan modern art.

00:21:32: And then at that last section of the museum It was opened a couple of years ago, to give the right space for contemporary art.

00:21:45: Because seven years ago I started working in collaboration with... ...I think it's number one contemporary artist at work, Jan Faber.

00:21:55: In that time he made pieces using different materials.

00:22:01: Then just for luck He visited my museum was shocked, they said no answer.

00:22:08: I already have some idea but with concrete ideas we will do something really fantastic and we are done!

00:22:16: We made some pieces that were sold to very rich collectors at a museum... And then together we decided also to donate something for Naples four big pieces of art in Piedmont de la Misericordia, and another donation was a big frame of coral two metres by two metres with the symbol of San Gennaro.

00:22:49: And this was a donation to the San Gernaro

00:22:52: treasure.".

00:22:53: So is this you giving back?

00:22:55: Or is it you expressing the fact that choral, let's say a work of art from nature and this is like an extension to that?

00:23:03: That the work of Art Of Nature deserves to collaborate with human spirit or the human mind in creating more art.

00:23:10: What are your visions behind collaborating with artists?

00:23:14: not just keeping chorals for jewelry as beads or cabocholes?

00:23:17: but we have limited time so at times when to let what we have done remain.

00:23:27: And, uh... What we can leave is the information and culture….

00:23:33: …and this kind of heritage that will remain for a century in place where people can appreciate the coral – what is the coral?

00:23:46: Yeah!

00:23:47: Of all coral types and coral varieties do you have personal favourites?

00:23:52: Let me say that.

00:23:53: Or is

00:23:53: it a trick question?

00:23:55: No, but I like Mediterranean because i'm very familiar especially in the last ten years become more easy to work with the Mediterranean as a trade.

00:24:09: if I have to say my favorite coral is Mediterranean not because I liked light color so angel skin is my style.

00:24:19: Castile

00:24:19: colors and angel skin yeah.

00:24:22: And you mentioned before Shaka Coral.

00:24:24: Not everybody is familiar with that, but can you tell us a little bit about Shaka and your relationship to Shaka

00:24:29: Koral?

00:24:30: How it formed where comes from... Shaka

00:24:32: koral belongs to rubrum corallium rubrum that is Mediterranean.

00:24:38: And was the deposit of coral found in the history?

00:24:43: say that was founded in eighteen seventy five.

00:24:46: In my opinion was found much much before at time Because I know that Islam was very close to the coral.

00:24:56: For religion and also for fishing, they invented tools... ...to fish the corals in the tenth century.

00:25:06: In North Africa?

00:25:09: Yes!

00:25:10: They used a tool so that they don't lose nets.

00:25:14: And it's also an elective way of fishing the coral because they use broken nets The broken heads, they take only the big branch leaving a small one.

00:25:27: So it was selective and of course sustainable way.

00:25:32: What happened in Shaka?

00:25:34: That strong current coming from Sardinia Tunisia Algerian and so on... ...the broken piece of small sardinean coral was bring through Sicily And the Sicily Channel, the current change stopped.

00:25:55: So the corollaries arrived there and went down on the sea base... ...and remained there for a century to a century.

00:26:06: They created deposit at an altitude of thirty metres.

00:26:11: You can imagine in thousands and thousands years that this phenomenon happened.

00:26:17: Thirty metres are also... many, many colors because on the top was of course red.

00:26:25: More you go down to the color when dye becomes orange and become pink there are some also line that was smoked by the volcano close to this area.

00:26:41: The volcano created the Ferdiandere Island In Sicily, yes.

00:26:49: A volcano that was born in one year and after it is destroyed by himself But the lava hit a dead line And the coral on this line was smoked.

00:27:03: black outside but still orange inside.

00:27:08: Then there are so many things to say about Shakakora.

00:27:17: Twenty years, I am writing notes.

00:27:20: Finally i met my best friend Erio who lives in Bangkok and he said finish your book!

00:27:29: I will read it for you And now is ready.

00:27:35: In the next week we'll send to Henry.

00:27:41: We look forward to reading the book.

00:27:43: And then, so why do you think that it was discovered before eighteen seventy-five?

00:27:47: They had the tools but they brought them to market

00:27:50: because my father in nineteen sixty he bought The biggest and oldest coral factory in Italy.

00:28:00: Company name was Costa.

00:28:03: That closed in nineteen thirty because of the war in Russia.

00:28:10: No family remained, so they donated everything to a small church near Genoa.

00:28:18: They have all these corals but don't understand anything.

00:28:22: So then I contacted my father and he paid a lot.

00:28:26: But the priest said Mr Irino you buy the corals Of course!

00:28:32: You should also clean the house The room... As a charge, I have to sell it because i need the money to repair that charge.

00:28:43: So my father was very happy to bring in his neighbors all of the documentation they had During this pandemic... ...I studied these documents together with my staff and we found some document In which costs a company Some piece of paper right by hand in which they bought the coral from Arabic people before Shaka Coral, and there are some also invoices made by United States or in Russia.

00:29:19: Or another part of the world for a big amount of necklace on Shaka coral.

00:29:26: And that date was before the nineteen seventy five.

00:29:30: And so how much of the Shaka coral deposit is there left?

00:29:33: I mean, that's what's interesting.

00:29:34: It's like if it's a coral mine or a coral deposit right... It

00:29:37: was a deposit as well but fees are

00:29:41: finished now.

00:29:43: Wow!

00:29:44: That's interesting.

00:29:45: And so, what do you think are the best light conditions to see Coral?

00:29:50: To touch Coral.

00:29:51: If somebody has never worked with Coral before or worn Coral... What would you recommend?

00:29:56: Now we have a new technology.

00:29:58: The Light doesn't make any damage to the Coral because the Corals don't love the hot temperature.

00:30:05: So mostly now the lights are with lead and these Personal tests, if you like warm light or cold light depend on also sometimes the pieces from the carving and from the feeling that you want to give it through.

00:30:24: If he's an artistic piece

00:30:27: And for many centuries Carl there was big debate is it animal?

00:30:32: Or Is It a Plant?

00:30:33: Yes

00:30:34: Any thoughts on that?

00:30:35: Also, when you get the branches afterwards obviously... ...you never just use the rough material.

00:30:41: You have to cut the rough materials and shape it then polish

00:30:46: them.

00:30:46: No there is as you know very well When fishing a coral outside there's skin in which the polyps live.

00:30:54: After one year those polyps die And they create the basis for another generation of polyps.

00:31:02: And the soft part, when we fish the coral in a couple hours will become dry and if you... We keep it in the deposit for year because we never used to fish the corals cut.

00:31:19: We like to keep them long time.

00:31:24: also each area has different color.

00:31:28: So, North Africa the color is more light and French coast it's darker.

00:31:36: Why do you think that?

00:31:38: Maybe some different small difference in the polyps?

00:31:43: this a good question.

00:31:45: maybe we can ask to scientific center in Monte Carlo To give an explanation.

00:31:50: And also in Corallium rubric there are the bokehs they have in cultivation for study branch of coral pink, very funny.

00:32:05: Also to understand what's happened there?

00:32:09: In that albino piece of coral.

00:32:12: Yeah I saw one.

00:32:13: those i visited in December at Monte Carlo.

00:32:15: it was interesting how they're growing the corals.

00:32:17: Fantastic people

00:32:18: But What is so difficult and rare about precious coral?

00:32:22: we can't just cultivate corals

00:32:24: We can cultivate for Saturday.

00:32:28: So

00:32:28: there is really this inherent rarity that you're working with a lot of...

00:32:32: It doesn't need.

00:32:32: also, because it's a lot.

00:32:34: You still have old stocks?

00:32:36: I see lots of old stock and over the course i had to think on their future.

00:32:43: so we cannot expect only the coral fished by the scuba dive Because too risky.

00:32:52: We must work to change the law, because it's stupid.

00:32:59: So right now you have to dive but is has to be below.

00:33:02: how many meters?

00:33:03: Fifty?

00:33:04: No!

00:33:05: Hundred?

00:33:05: Now they will change again and make more stronger

00:33:10: for the Mediterranean

00:33:12: Because it was fifty...now its eighty.

00:33:15: That's tough diving under eighty

00:33:17: And then we can reach hundred meters or ten meters, twenty meters no more And you can be there for two, three or five minutes at very risky when we make a strong regulation on fishing with the robot.

00:33:40: The robot is really sustainable because it has two hands and of course the robots have monitor video And if I found a small branch, he doesn't care.

00:33:54: He goes more far to find the big branches.

00:33:58: when you've found it with one arm we take that big branch and with other arm just broken this little branch that goes in rock and create another coral colony.

00:34:12: Yeah

00:34:13: colonies yeah Interesting.

00:34:15: And this is how they do it.

00:34:16: also in Japan, right?

00:34:17: They have a lot more experience with... In

00:34:18: Japan the law is that the core can be fished only by roe.

00:34:26: Only by roes and then Europe.

00:34:29: we are just opposite.

00:34:31: It's stupid!

00:34:31: Well let see where that goes but there're still alot of old stocks left like in Tordel Greco people has.

00:34:37: yes yeah so you not worried for your I guess Your son still has coral to work with and you said that the next generation is already being prepared.

00:34:46: We

00:34:46: have two things about, uh... The Next Generation.

00:34:49: Of course I cannot think if they start fishing corals With a robot And the robots will fish a lot of coral.

00:34:58: No it's not true Because They can fish only six months per year.

00:35:05: There are another three months or six in which weather isn't good And it takes time.

00:35:12: It takes a lot of time.

00:35:14: They should have license, they should be big boat... ...it's not something easy like the image You just take small boats with a rope and you go to take a coral Not like this.

00:35:29: Where is demand for precious corals today in terms of markets and continents?

00:35:34: How has that evolved over last fifty years.

00:35:37: Well as always There are up and down on the market, then there is some countries that start to use more.

00:35:44: And after a couple of years they remain stable... ...and grow in other markets.

00:35:51: So we went from Saudi Arabia's market up to Russia Then came back to Germany, United States.

00:36:01: Until a few years ago United States was our first market for us.

00:36:07: Let's say that now the country with a French influence, they are one who gives us work.

00:36:15: And mostly of the bigger brand or famous brands – they're French!

00:36:21: And they also used a lot of coral during Art Deco, the fifties, sixties and seventies.

00:36:28: A lot of big brands worked so much with coral that they're revisiting some of their past designs... Right!

00:36:33: ...and

00:36:34: we have this cultural heritage in having corals right?

00:36:37: Yes!

00:36:38: Same for Italian brands.

00:36:39: There

00:36:40: are not many designers or creative people there is one but like before.

00:36:49: So they are studying the old collection to try and get some idea from what I've made before.

00:36:58: And do you cut coral yourself or polish yourselves?

00:37:01: Yes,

00:37:01: yes!

00:37:02: You

00:37:02: like doing it...and also paint right?

00:37:06: I like painting.

00:37:07: What did you paint then?

00:37:08: In the beginning guys started painting when i was really very young classic things vessel or house.

00:37:18: I start to be more interested in, let's say contemporary art.

00:37:24: And then understand that i won't use coral.

00:37:27: In the beginning I used a coral powder.

00:37:29: The one which remains when you finish your work to cut remain like a powder

00:37:37: But as paint pigment.

00:37:39: or do you use it as color?

00:37:42: No!

00:37:44: I glue on some parts of the painting But then I use the same technique used by Jan Faber.

00:37:53: So some paint, let's say painting of mine.

00:37:57: they are in three D and there is a face And part of the faces covered by branch coral small Cabochon and so on Also using different color mostly the shaka coral helped me alot because Shaka has maybe forty, fifty different nuances of color.

00:38:21: That's incredible diversity that you can do with it.

00:38:23: and then with your grandchildren because you said you're preparing the next generation.

00:38:27: what are you teaching them about Carl?

00:38:29: How Are You Getting Them Interested?

00:38:32: Well someone over course is more interested than other but mostly they won't imitate me They wouldn't make something I do so.

00:38:43: when they come to They see that I make painting, they want to paint together.

00:38:47: So i prepare four tablets and say okay five because one of them you know?

00:38:55: And he said what do we wanna do?

00:38:58: an house or this or that... We will do together five different things.

00:39:04: the oldest ones now are more interested in making some concrete things.

00:39:13: it's more close to my arts, let say art.

00:39:18: Then I would also say that we are cooperating now with an organization in Naples as fifteen young people who...I don't know how to see the English autistic or syndrome at the down?

00:39:37: Yeah, Down syndrome

00:39:39: and for one year will teach them everything about coral.

00:39:43: So, we started in January.

00:39:46: Three months of theory with using canoes.

00:39:51: the image... The coral is this.

00:39:54: and then it was fished like these You see?

00:39:59: Using the technique of Rui.

00:40:01: No!

00:40:01: For instance.

00:40:02: Okay let's go down to see the coral in water And that the images completely black.

00:40:09: Ah there are no images because we forgot to switch the light.

00:40:15: So, you can see the coral in the sea and they feel enthusiastic.

00:40:24: so moving them now have a passion especially when they understand that I want teach how do some objects using poor quality of coral.

00:40:40: But they've made one... We start with the frame, small frames.

00:40:47: And on side of the frame there's a piece of coral.

00:40:51: Someone makes better and someone makes less.

00:40:54: It

00:40:56: is really

00:40:59: inspiring!

00:41:00: So my technique I am teaching to them also even what to put inside because you can of course put pictures in it But you can even put your design, or sketch that you will cover with a shell and some small pieces broken of turquoise.

00:41:22: Or other materials just to create...

00:41:28: You know my brother-in-law has Down syndrome?

00:41:31: And he loves to paint!

00:41:33: So maybe I come to Torredo Greco and teach us both together.

00:41:37: My

00:41:37: sister is...

00:41:40: Yes.

00:41:42: Maybe for this reason I like

00:41:44: to teach...

00:41:45: And one thing is that, I don't want communicate these things because what am i made of?

00:41:58: Because

00:41:59: you do it from the heart and because he feels right

00:42:02: at end over here we will make an exhibition.

00:42:06: Then we sell what they ever made and the money went through there.

00:42:11: Wow, so when will this be?

00:42:13: At the end of year

00:42:14: at the end Of this year twenty-twenty five okay

00:42:16: And then I would give to them a diploma.

00:42:19: They will become coral ambassador

00:42:22: wow

00:42:23: with the mayor or city of total Greek.

00:42:25: or come with Italian flag Make a nice ceremony.

00:42:31: Oh that's really inspiring.

00:42:33: That's a great way of giving back and maybe some of the pieces will then also end up in your museum,

00:42:38: right?

00:42:39: Why not.

00:42:39: Well

00:42:40: I look forward to it.

00:42:41: thank you very much Enzo for this conversation.

00:42:43: Thank

00:42:43: You Lorde!

00:42:44: I realize that i need come back to Torre del Greco To see the Museum and visit again The workshops And learn more.

00:42:53: So thanks so much For sharing all your expertise and wisdom

00:42:57: Our

00:43:02: guest Enzo Liberino Reminding us That what we leave behind is knowledge & culture.

00:43:08: That was another Hidden Gem by SSCF, the Swiss Gemological Institute.

00:43:12: Thank you for listening!

New comment

Your name or nickname, will be shown publicly
At least 10 characters long
By submitting your comment you agree that the content of the field "Name or nickname" will be stored and shown publicly next to your comment. Using your real name is optional.